Emanuele Mazzola, Executive Baker at Cipriani, faced a difficult reality and impossible choice when he moved to the U.S: Abandon his craft and love of bread or rediscover the ancient secrets of Italian baking that could change the way we digest and our relationship with carbohydrates.
BY LF ITALY
February, 2025
How do Italian and North American attitudes toward bread consumption differ?
Emanuele Mazzola: In North America, bread is often viewed merely as a convenient vehicle for quick meals, typically associated with fast food or hurried sandwich consumption. In contrast, Italian bread culture centers around community and connection—picture a rustic loaf at the center of a table, surrounded by family and friends sharing not just food, but time and conversation.
What distinguishes traditional fermentation from commercial baking methods?
E.M: Traditional fermentation honors time as a crucial ingredient. Commercial bakeries often employ shortcuts and additives to mimic slow fermentation’s effects, adding preservatives to extend shelf life. These industrial processes, while efficient, sacrifice both the health benefits and complex flavors that develop naturally during authentic artisanal fermentation.
Could you explain how traditional sourdough fermentation affects wheat proteins and gluten sensitivity?
E.M: The relationship between fermentation and digestibility is fascinating and personal to me. After experiencing gluten sensitivity during my first two years in the U.S., I revised my diet habits and discovered I could enjoy wheat products again through traditional methods. While gluten is often blamed for digestive issues, the reality is more complex. Slow fermentation appears to pre-digest gluten proteins, making them more manageable for our bodies to process.
What makes traditional Italian bread exceptional with
just four basic ingredients?
E.M: It’s the synergy between superior ingredients and time-honored techniques that creates exceptional bread. Expert millers process high-quality grains respectfully, providing us with outstanding flours. Combined with our saper fare (know-how)—knowledge accumulated over a lifetime in the kitchen—these pure ingredients are all we need to feed our sourdough starters and create bread with remarkable flavor and texture.
How does traditional fermented bread differ from industrial bread in terms of health impact?
E.M: Many people associate all bread with carbohydrates without understanding that not all carbs are created equal. Industrial bread typically contains simple carbohydrates, which aren’t ideal for a healthy diet. Traditional fermentation creates complex carbohydrates that our bodies process differently. Furthermore, properly made bread can be a valuable carrier of essential nutrients—a fact often overlooked in modern dietary discussions.
As an Italian baker in America, what changes have you observed in wheat varieties and flour processing?
E.M: In the U.S., ultra-processed flours from intensive agricultural models are prevalent. This results in bread that’s often nutritionally depleted, containing little more than simple carbohydrates and potentially harmful chemical residues. The contrast with traditional Italian milling and wheat cultivation methods is striking.
What should consumers look for to identify authentic,
well-made bread?
E.M: This is a significant challenge for consumers due to the lack of proper legislation protecting them from misleading marketing. Currently, there’s no legal definition for sourdough bread, creating confusion in the marketplace. I share the same advice with my children that I give to customers: choose products with the shortest ingredient lists—99% of the time, it’s the healthiest choice.
What’s the key difference in Italian and American bread?
E.M: North American bread often serves as a neutral vessel, sometimes flavorless or even unpleasant-smelling, designed to be loaded with numerous ingredients. For Europeans, particularly Italians, quality artisanal bread is a primary ingredient itself, offering subtle aromas and flavors that complement—rather than compete with—simple toppings or fillings.
Why is the modern fear of bread and carbohydrates misguided?
E.M: Dietary trends have historically villanized various foods—eggs, butter, fats, meat, and now carbohydrates. The truth lies in balance: enjoying a variety of seasonal, simple ingredients, as our grandparents did. It’s worth noting that when people followed traditional diets, we saw fewer instances of obesity, diabetes, and food allergies. Ultra-processed foods have clearly impacted our health negatively. Additionally, historically, people were more physically active and relied on good bread as a primary energy source. It’s not just about what we eat, but how it’s made and how we consume it.