In the Niagara Peninsula, the heart of Ontario's wine country, where winter's icy fingers grip the landscape, becoming an insurmountable obstacle to viticulture, one man recognized a unique opportunity to craft something extraordinary out of the impossible. This is the story of Donald Ziraldo, the Canadian winemaking legend who turned Canada's harshest season into an ally, producing Canada’s first Ice Wine— today a cornerstone of viticultural excellence in the world.
BY GIOVANNA G. BONOMO
October, 2024
When Donald Ziraldo arranged to come to Rome from Venice to meet me for a "dinnerview" after his documentary debut at the 81st Venice Film Festival, the weather decided to add its own dramatic flair. As torrential rain battered the Eternal City, I feared our esteemed guest might opt for a cozy night in, after all, the interview could have been done over zoom, or on the phone. But Ziraldo was unfazed.
I'd forgotten that like a vine, he was born to thrive in harsh climates. While lesser mortals might have balked at the torrential rains, the Canadian wine pioneer simply stepped off the train, nabbed a fedora from a street vendor, and sauntered into the restaurant at 9 PM sharp, looking as dapper as a red carpet regular. "So,” he grinned, shaking off the rain from his new white hat, "how does a Niagara girl end up in Rome?"
While perusing the extensive wine list, I expected Donald, with his immense expertise, to take charge of our wine selection. To my surprise, he quickly closed the menu and signaled for the sommelier. "In Italy, we trust the locals," he said with a wink, his eyes twinkling with the wisdom of years spent in vineyards across the globe. As we sipped the sommelier's choice, a crisp white from the nearby Frascati region, Donald began to unfold his remarkable story, one that spans continents and transforms the way we think about wine, and defying the seemingly impossible.
“My skin is Canadian, but my blood is Italian”
Donald begins, recounting his deep connection to his parents’ homeland of Friuli, a northeastern Italian region. Born and raised in Canada’s Niagara region, Ziraldo’s upbringing was shaped by the rich traditions of Friuli and the rhythms of Canadian seasons. His parents, Fiorello and Irma, brought more than just their belongings from the small town of Fagagna; they carried a profound love for the land and its bounty.
Fiorello Ziraldo came to Canada in 1923, entering through Ellis Island in New York City. At just 15 years old, he had already determined that crossing the ocean was necessary to escape Italy’s post-World War I economic depression. His plan was straightforward: come to America, work diligently, save money, and return home.
Fiorello traveled as a stowaway in a crowded third-class cabin. Born in Fagagna, Friuli, Ziraldo’s father was among many Friulani seeking a better life through steady work in America during the 1920s. While in New York, a friend informed him about mining opportunities in Timmins, Ontario. Associating gold with wealth, Fiorello decided to become a gold miner there.
After 23 years in the McIntyre mines, he had saved enough to purchase farmland in the Niagara Peninsula and a first-class ticket back to Fagagna in 1946. In Fagagna, Fiorello met Irma Victoria Schiratti, a recently graduated obstetrician.
Their whirlwind romance led to marriage within months, followed by a luxurious honeymoon at New York City’s famous Waldorf Astoria Hotel. Irma quickly adapted to farm life in Niagara, despite the stark contrast to their honeymoon. “My father always aspired to be a farmer, like his parents in Friuli,” Ziraldo shared. “By 1948, when I was born, my parents had settled comfortably into farming life.” He fondly recalled, “My grandfather made wine in his basement, and I remember helping him crush grapes with my bare feet. It was a family affair that ignited a lifelong passion in me.”
Ziraldo’s parents instilled a strong work ethic and deep interest in the family business, Ziraldo Farms and Nursery, in their children. This became crucial when Fiorello died suddenly in 1963, leaving 15-year-old Donald to assume significant responsibilities as the oldest son.
His mother, emphasizing the importance of education, insisted he attend university. Donald studied agricultural sciences at Guelph University, returning home on weekends to help his mother manage the farm. In a fortuitous turn of events, Ziraldo crossed paths with Karl Kaiser, a chemistry graduate from Brock University. Kaiser, an Austrian immigrant with a passion for winemaking, shared Ziraldo’s ambitious dream of elevating Canadian wine to world-class status.
United by their shared vision, Ziraldo and Kaiser joined forces to establish Inniskillin Wines in 1975. This venture marked a significant milestone in Canadian viticultural history, as Inniskillin became the first winery in Ontario to be granted a license since the era of Prohibition.
This bold move would change the face of Canadian winemaking forever. They became the first to plant vinifera grapes in the Niagara region, a decision that many thought foolhardy at the time. But it was a serendipitous discovery that would catapult them to global fame: Ice wine. Kaiser and Ziraldo recognized that Ontario’s snowy blanket served a dual purpose.
While it painted a picturesque winter landscape, it also acted as a natural insulator, shielding the vines’ vulnerable root systems from the most severe temperature drops. So what did the duo do? They left some of their Vidal grapes on the vine. What happened next was a game changer.
As autumn’s last leaves fell and winter’s first frost crystallized the air, the grapevines began a remarkable transformation, entering a state akin to hibernation, a deep slumber that belies the complex invisible processes occurring within. “The vines’ lifeblood—their sap—retreats to the roots to protect the plant’s essence from the biting cold.
This apparent period of dormancy, is far from inactive, it is crucial to the vines’ survival and, ultimately, to the unique qualities of Ontario ice wines,” Ziraldo explained. “The harsh winter conditions stresses the vines, concentrating their resources and setting the stage for more complex flavor development.
In milder climates, vines enjoy a prolonged growing season but miss out on the intense winter dormancy that characterizes Ontario’s viticulture.” The result? A nectar unlike anything Canada had ever seen or knew possible, a wine of unparalleled sweetness and complexity born in and from adverse conditions.
In 1991, Inniskillin’s Vidal IceWine won the Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo in France, catapulting Canadian wine onto the global stage. “That moment changed everything,” Ziraldo reflected. “Suddenly, the world was paying attention to Canadian wine, and we were at the forefront of it all.” This victory was not just a triumph for Inniskillin, but for the entire Canadian wine industry. Ziraldo saw beyond the cold and decided to harness its unique characteristics to create a product that could not be replicated in warmer regions.
Despite his success, Ziraldo never forgot his Italian roots. In 2004, he was granted honorary citizenship in Fagagna, a moment that would change the course of his life. Inspired by the town’s history and the legacy of his ancestors, Ziraldo embarked on a new mission: to bring the storied Picolit grape back to its birthplace. Picolit is a white grape variety native to Friuli. Its current name is Picolit, but in the past it was also called Piccolito, Piccolit, and Piccolitto Friulano. Ziraldo planted his Picolit vines on the very land where his family had once tended grapes. He poured his heart and soul into the project, tending the finicky vines with the same love and devotion his ancestors had shown centuries before.
But the journey was not without its challenges. Due to DOC regulations, Ziraldo was not allowed to call his wine Picolit, as Fagagna was not part of the official appellation. Undeterred, he fought for a “DOC Communale” designation, a battle that would last years. In the end, Ziraldo’s wine would be called “Bianco di Fagagna,” a humble name that belied its noble origins. But for Ziraldo, it was a tribute to his parents, to Fagagna, and to the indomitable spirit of Friuli. Ziraldo has since expanded his viticultural horizons to include Prosecco, partnering with long-time friend Mario Schwenn to launch a Prosecco from the Conegliano Valdobbiadene region, an area recently recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Today, Donald Ziraldo’s story has come full circle. With his son Aspen by his side, he is passing on the wisdom and the love of generations past. As they walk the rows together, Ziraldo knows that he is not just cultivating grapes, he is growing a legacy. “These days, I am happiest when working in my vineyards, with my son by my side.” When asked about his Canadian-Italian identity he replied, “I am fiercely proud to be Canadian, and equally proud of the cultural aspect of being Italian, and Friulan in particular.
For countless centuries, my people have suffered earthquakes, wars, famines, epidemics, conquests, emperors and exploitation. Yet, with lion hearts, they have always picked themselves up, dusted themselves off and moved on, always with pride and dignity.”
Just as the grapevine’s lifeblood retreats to its roots during the harsh Canadian winter, only to resurge and create something exquisite, Ziraldo too drew strength from his cultural roots. By embracing his Italian heritage and Canadian identity, he created a rich, nuanced legacy that transcends borders. And his story tells me that true innovation often comes from retreating to our cultural identity, allowing us to emerge with creations as complex and sweet as the wines he brings into the world.
As our dinner in Rome came to a close, Donald raised his glass in a toast. “To Niagara!” he said with a smile, “and to the endless possibilities that arise when we bridge tradition with innovation.”
Today, Donald Ziraldo’s story has come full circle. With his son Aspen by his side, he is passing on the wisdom and the love of generations past. As they walk the rows together, Ziraldo knows that he is not just cultivating grapes, he is growing a legacy. “These days, I am happiest when working in my vineyards, with my son by my side.” When asked about his Canadian-Italian identity he replied, “I am fiercely proud to be Canadian, and equally proud of the cultural aspect of being Italian, and Friulan in particular.
For countless centuries, my people have suffered earthquakes, wars, famines, epidemics, conquests, emperors and exploitation. Yet, with lion hearts, they have always picked themselves up, dusted themselves off and moved on, always with pride and dignity.”
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