From Bologna to New York, Michele Casadei Massari, Chef Patron and Ambassador of Parmigiano Reggiano, isn't afraid of pursuing the flame if it means capturing and sharing his heritage through the art of food.
BY GIOVANNA G. BONOMO
October,2024
Chef Michele Massari’s journey from a medical student in Bologna to a culinary innovator in New York is a testament to the power of passion and perseverance. Lucciola, his fine dining Italian restaurant in the heart of Manhattan’s Upper West Side, is a corner of Emilia-Romagna where Massari not only introduces New Yorkers to some of the specialties that make his region famous worldwide, but also wants to teach “all the rituality and sense of care and devotion” that goes into each dish.
Massari’s culinary roots were planted by his grandfather, a chef born in 1932. “He taught me that cooking was a way to be free, to spread my wings, and to meet my destiny,” Massari recalls. Despite initially pursuing medicine to appease his family’s desire for “a secure future,” the allure of the kitchen eventually led Massari to leave medical school and follow his true calling.
Studying at the prestigious University of Bologna laid the foundation for Massari’s culinary journey, which then took him to Asia for four years, including a stint in Bali. This global exposure would later infuse his cooking with unexpected twists, challenging conventional Italian cuisine.
When Massari arrived in New York in October 2009, he found a city full of opportunities but entrenched in a dated version of Italian cuisine. “I found a city full of opportunities, but also a place where Italian cuisine was very different from what it is now,” Massari notes. “It was the era of ‘red sauce’ and large portions, far from the regional Italian cuisine we see today. I discovered that I could adapt and innovate while remaining grounded in my heritage.”
New York’s melting pot became the crucible where Massari discovered the power of his roots: “I learned that my background from Bologna gave me the confidence to open my horizons, to create dishes that might combine Parmigiano with seaweed or use balsamic vinegar in unexpected ways,” he reflects. “Being away made me appreciate the unique flavors and techniques of Emilia-Romagna even more.
It was a revelation that tradition could serve as a springboard for innovation, a superpower that inspires without limiting.” This philosophy is evident at Lucciola, inspired by Pupi Avati’s film “Festa di Laurea,” capturing the nostalgic and romantic mood of Bologna. “The dishes, the atmosphere, and the overall concept of Lucciola specifically takes inspiration from the film ‘Festa di Laurea,’ directed by Pupi Avati, a movie that I love,” Massari explains.
“The restaurant reflects the nostalgic and romantic mood of Bologna that Avati depicted, especially his famous courtyard scene where the simple illumination was reminiscent of fireflies.”
Massari’s vision for the future of fine dining is a bold departure from the status quo, a philosophy he puts into practice at Lucciola. “The future of fine dining, to me, is about opening horizons and breaking down traditional barriers. It’s not just about the food on the plate, but the entire experience and the people behind it,” he states.
At Lucciola, the lines between front and back of house are blurred, with front of house staff involved in menu planning and quality control. “This collaborative approach brings new energy and perspectives to fine dining,” Massari adds.
This innovative approach extends to all aspects of Massari’s vision for the future of fine dining, which encompasses global inspirations, sustainability, and personalization. “I believe the future of fine dining will be more inclusive and diverse in its influences.
It’s about respecting your roots but not being limited by them,” he asserts. “The future is also about sustainability and responsibility. This goes beyond just ingredient sourcing – it’s about creating a sustainable work environment too.” Perhaps most importantly, Massari believes the future of fine dining lies in personalization. “Lastly, I think fine dining will become more personalized. We don’t have a fixed menu at Lucciola – we create a unique experience for each guest based on their preferences. This level of customization and attention to individual diners is, I believe, the future of truly fine dining.”
Beyond his work at Lucciola, Massari shares his passion for Italian cuisine and culture as the protagonist of a weekly segment on Rai Italia’s “Paparazzi” show. The segment, which reaches Italian expats, Italian-Americans, and fans of Italy around the world, features Massari discussing Italian customs, traditions, and ways of life through a culinary lens.
Listeners from across the globe turn to him for recipes, advice, and suggestions on how to best interpret Italian cuisine with the ingredients available in their countries.
As an Ambassador of Parmigiano Reggiano, Culinary Director of Pastificio Felicetti and of Casa I Wonder, Massari continues to push the boundaries of Italian cuisine. His journey serves as an inspiration to aspiring chefs everywhere, proving that with passion and perseverance, one can truly chase their dream...and catch it.
In 440 BC, Hippocrates said, “Let food be thy medicine, and let thy medicine be food.”
Do you agree?
M.C.M.: I agree. Food is not just sustenance; it is a powerful tool for well-being. The ingredients we choose and how we prepare them can profoundly impact our health. I use high-quality, natural ingredients that nourish the body and soul in my cooking. This philosophy is a cornerstone of my culinary approach, where every dish is crafted with care and attention to its health benefits and flavors.
How do you define Emilia Romagna cuisine and its unique flavors?
M.C.M.: Emilia Romagna cuisine celebrates rich, bold flavors and artisanal craftsmanship. Its exceptional ingredients, such as Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar from Modena, and Prosciutto di Parma, define it. These ingredients are the heart of our culinary heritage, each with its story and tradition. The cuisine emphasizes hearty, comforting dishes like tortellini, lasagna, and tagliatelle al ragù, reflecting a deep connection to the land and a respect for time-honored techniques.
How do you preserve your rich cultural and culinary heritage in the US?
M.C.M.: Preserving our culinary heritage in the US involves a balance of authenticity and innovation. At Lucciola, we remain true to traditional recipes and cooking methods while also embracing the diversity and creativity of New York's culinary landscape. By sourcing authentic Italian ingredients and educating our guests about the stories behind our dishes, we create an immersive dining experience that honors our roots.
What are some culinary rules or traditions that never change?
M.C.M.: Some traditions are timeless: the importance of fresh, high-quality ingredients, the respect for seasonal produce, and the meticulous attention to detail in preparation. These principles are the foundation of Italian cuisine and remain unchanged. The art of making pasta by hand, the slow cooking of a ragù, and the careful aging of cheeses and cured meats are all practices that connect us to our culinary heritage.
What is the difference between Italian cuisine and Italian American cuisine?
M.C.M: Italian cuisine is intensely regional, with each area offering distinct flavors and dishes. Italian American cuisine, on the other hand, has evolved from the immigrant experience, adapting traditional recipes to the ingredients and tastes of the New World. This fusion has created beloved dishes like spaghetti, meatballs, and chicken Parmesan, which, while not traditional in Italy, reflect the adaptability and resilience of Italian culinary traditions.
Your philosophy emphasizes simplicity and quality ingredients in cooking. How do you translate this philosophy into your dishes at Lucciola?
M.C.M: At Lucciola, simplicity and quality are at the heart of every dish. We focus on a few outstanding ingredients, letting their natural flavors shine. By treating each ingredient with respect and care, we create elegant and deeply satisfying dishes. This approach allows us to maintain the integrity of traditional Italian cuisine while providing a refined dining experience.
What and who inspires you creatively outside of the kitchen?
M.C.M: Outside the kitchen, I draw inspiration from various sources, including art, music, and nature. The works of great artists and musicians, the beauty of the natural world, and the vibrant cultural scene of New York all fuel my creativity. These influences help me see food from different perspectives and bring new ideas and techniques into my culinary repertoire.
A perfect example of this artistic inspiration is our new risotto, which pays tribute to Andy Warhol's "Eggs, 1982" artwork. This dish showcases how art can directly influence culinary creation. We use quail eggs as the star ingredient, complemented by either squid ink or bamboo charcoal powder, depending on the client's allergies or preferences. This risotto not only honors Warhol's exploration of the everyday and the overlooked but also demonstrates how we can transform simple ingredients into extraordinary culinary experiences, bridging the gap between visual art and gastronomy.
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