The Felliniesque period inspired a dream. One of sophistication and extreme elegance that makes the dolce vita era senza tempo*, unforgettable, and immortal.
BY MONICA IOTTI
June, 2024
During that time, the city of Rome was the true capital of the dolce vita, where the undeniable focal point of high society life was “Via Veneto.” Rome and Via Veneto became famous worldwide for the presence of the most luxurious hotels, the trendiest clubs that were open until dawn, the high society, the luxury, and the elegance of those years. It became the hottest spot for all the “viveur” people of that era. These were also the years of economic boom, where the desire to live, enjoy beauty, the climate, and entertainment exploded in one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
But above all, the peculiarity of Rome in those years is “Cinecittà,” where not only Italian films were shot, but especially films from American film productions. So, Rome was invaded not only by technicians, producers, actresses, and actors but also by night owls, nobles, aspiring playboys, as well as world-famous directors.
The private parties in clubs, villas, and restaurants were very famous, but one, in particular, marked the emblem of the “Italian Roman Dolce Vita.” Indeed, at the “Rugantino” restaurant in Trastevere, during the celebration of Countess Olghina di Robilant’s birthday, where Federico Fellini and Giulietta Masina were also invited, Anita Ekberg arrived at their table with a group of photographers and a Turkish- Armenian dancer named Aïché Nana, who improvised a striptease.
It was a major scandal; all the rolls of film from the evening were confiscated, and there were even legal issues. However, a few rolls of film escaped seizure, and so the photos of the evening were published in all the newspapers.That scandal caused a huge sensation for the time, but it made Rome even more famous worldwide, and especially those photographs by the paparazzi became the very symbol of the “dolce vita.” At the bar tables of Via Veneto, intellectuals, poets, and writers discussed. The intellectual environment indeed, did not absolutely disdain the worldly side, as it was a succession of parties, events, and cocktails on the terraces and in the Roman salons, then mixing also in the clubs. From this explosion of luxury, the attention to grace, to gentlemen, to elegance, and especially to etiquette intensifies; in fact, in 1960 the famous manual “The Art of Living by Donna Letizia” was published, a guide to elegance, good manners, and etiquette.
Etiquette and elegance are reflected in every aspect during that period. If each decade is distinguished by a piece of clothing, a fashionable detail capable of setting it apart from the others, the period spanning the 1950s and 1960s has many elements to leverage. It was just after the end of World War II, and an era of great optimism, economic development, and, above all, a precise evolution of style was beginning.
The style of the Dolce vita era, we can say, marked the birth of incredible fashion creations characterized by great femininity, elegance, and sophistication. These are the keywords of the new trends that emerged during those years.
The Bon Ton Style was the classic, essential daytime outfit, featuring a full skirt, colorful belts to highlight the waist (referred to as the “wasp waist”), and complemented by a white or polka dot blouse. Additionally, delightful cardigans and twin sets in a bon ton style were worn, along with short white gloves and long gloves with evening and cocktail dresses, Capri pants, “cat eye” and “square” sunglasses for a glamorous look, Hermès scarves, and Pucci dresses.
Simple ballerina flats were worn, aiming for a carefree yet chic look. Girls styled their hair in a simple ponytail that highlighted their smooth bangs. An additional touch of color was provided by a scarf elegantly tied around the neck or worn on the head, as seen in the wonderful film “Roman Holiday” starring Audrey Hepburn, where Audrey is practically dressed in this manner, representing absolute elegance and bon ton.
On the other hand, ladies wore the indispensable high heels, whether high stiletto heels or low kitten heels or open-toe shoes, with a slender and feminine line, paired with a handbag. Evening or daytime sheath dresses, long and short full skirts, sophisticated stoles and tailored suits, complemented by pearl necklaces and bracelets, intricately designed brooches worn strictly on the left side according to etiquette, and precious bijoux accessories from that period, defined the outfits.
This rule of elegance from the etiquette of “matching bag and shoes” is still followed today in extremely formal contexts. Combining bag and shoes remains a fundamental aspect of good taste. The rules on how to wear jewelry, brooches, and accessories, dictated by good manners and elegance, have remained the same even today.
Elegant ladies wore their hair with a side part, flowing over their shoulders with elaborate curls or waves. In the 1950s, it is no coincidence that curlers were frequently used to add volume to the hair. Furthermore, the hourglass silhouette emerged, which would remain in vogue for all the subsequent decades, and the classic and legendary Little Black Dress was also born, still current and used by women worldwide, representing a very current image of elegance and bon ton. Additionally, we cannot forget the bandana, Capri pants, and jewel-embellished sandals, worn by Jacqueline Kennedy in Capri, a modern-day must-have for elegance and bon ton.
All these details have remained the foundation of a timeless elegance and bon ton.
Not only did clothing characterize the refinement of the period, but also the makeup. The makeup of women in the ‘50s and ‘60s was characterized by pastel shades, feline-style black lines, well- defined eyebrows, the use of false lashes and red lips, and very interesting almond-shaped short nails. If we look at this kind of makeup today, we see that it has become very current again (although today there is unfortunately a tendency to oversimplify everything).
The rules today are the same as they were back then; the only difference is that today the invitation may arrive via email.
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